Must be all the 2nd's that Gibson shipped off to Canada.
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:03 pm ] |
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I would leave it alone for now. Let it settle in. You might find in a week or two you will want to lower the action. Considering the 2x the action for saddle lowering you might be just fine |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:50 pm ] |
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let it settle in. a 1/4 inch of saddle is the usual upper limit, and with only 1/2"above the top this is nt bad at all. once it settles a bit you may have to lower the saddle a bit. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:59 pm ] |
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Does this mean that your bridge is only 9/32"? That's a really low bridge. I consider .325"-.350" as an ideal height, and .375" as acceptable. When I see a bridge down towards 1/4" I usually suspect it to have been shaved. It sounds like your neck set is perfect for a .350" bridge with a .150" saddle, which is exactly what I would be shooting for to begin with. I would pull the bridge and make a new one. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:24 pm ] |
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When I see a bridge down towards 1/4" I usually suspect it to have been shaved Old Gibson bridges were exactly 1/4"(.250") thick, as are many of mine. It's perhaps the ideal bridge thickness, in fact.... |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 10:57 pm ] |
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I ususally thin the bridge to its required hieght, just a couple hairs below the lie of the frets, before gluing it on. As with Mario, mine end up between 1/4 and 5/16, and then show about 1/8 of saddle with action set at 75-95 thou. Sounds good to me. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:58 am ] |
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Man, 1/4" is way too short for me, and I would consider 5/16" to be the lowest I would typically go. Martin bridges have always been from just over 5/16"- 3/8", although I've seen some recent ones at .400". Gibson never used anything that thin in thier golden years. The thin bridges gradually started appearing from the 50's through to the seventies, just about parallel with the overall quality control drop of thier acoustics. There may be a few earlier mustache bridges that are exceptions, but not the great flat tops of the 30's and 40's. In any case, making a new bridge and replacing the old one would take me about two hours hands on time, so it seemed like the easiest way (as well as an improvement in my opinion). Resetting the neck to drop the angle would be quite extreme for this, and would take a lot more time either in touchup for shims or possibly having to move the saddle slot back. Leveling a little out of the frets is certainly another option. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:07 am ] |
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The 1/4" Gibson bridges I've seen are all from the 30's and 40's.... Not arguing, just stating what I've seen and measured... |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:56 am ] |
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Must be all the 2nd's that Gibson shipped off to Canada.
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:03 am ] |
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[QUOTE=David Collins] Must be all the 2nd's that Gibson shipped off to Canada.
[/QUOTE] ROFLOL.... I believe Mario may have met his match on this one... |
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| Author: | Mario [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:18 am ] |
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whatever.... |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:43 am ] |
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Thats some sweet EIrw veneer you got there ... makes a cool bridge huh !!!! heck you go that thin, you might as well just paint it on 
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| Author: | Tom Morici [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:02 pm ] |
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Todd funny picture, thanks Im old and boring and I need a laugh sometimes. Tom |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:02 pm ] |
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I cant claim to have invented it, but the first time I thought of doing was before I had heard anyone say thats a way to remove a bridge if you dont care to save it. I had heated them off before, and thought well its easy enough to skim route the top down so that the centre area is easier to get the heat into to release - probably based somewhat on the the slot routing fixture that Sm sells - you can see how that kind of idea would work. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:23 am ] |
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i'm not sure of gibson's methods, but i would be surprized if they were much different than martin's, i.e., bridges were made in various thicknesses, and final selection was made based upon what suited the neck set of the particular guitar. thus you could look at several instruments from a production run and they could have bridges of varying thickness. |
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:39 am ] |
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[QUOTE=ToddStock] You mean Gibson was shipping some that were not seconds? [/QUOTE] HA! 
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:48 am ] |
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Seconds are the good ones .. those are the ones that went thru the factory a SECOND time. What did you think they were, like 2nd quality or something ???
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:45 am ] |
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Looks great Todd .. the toner is sweet ... |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Sat Sep 02, 2006 1:09 am ] |
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Todd, it looks great! How does she sound? I just posted a couple of pics of my L-00 that has one of Shane's lower grade tops on it in another thread. I love the lutz! Mine's not strung up yet though. |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Sat Sep 02, 2006 2:05 am ] |
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Todd, that's a mighty fine looking instrument! Looking forward to the "glamour" shots. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:29 am ] |
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Looking great Todd, glad everything worked out well for you, you sure help others very often so consider the help you've received as a returned favor my friend! 
Serge |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Sat Sep 02, 2006 11:56 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=ToddStock]Any more shots of the small-body hanging next to the dread? Looks like an O? [/QUOTE] I'll see if I can get out to the shop in the next day or two and take a couple of pics of it for you Todd. I am not sure of the size as it was copied from one that a friend gave me, an old junker that is painted with flowers or something all over the top. I just liked the shape and decided to see if I could get a bluesy kinda guitar out of it. Still need to make the neck. |
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